Camilla Franks' Guide To Dining In Portugal

CAMILLA FRASK GUIDE TO DINING IN PORTUGAL

CAMILLA FRANKS GUIDE TO DINING IN PORTUGAL

Anyone that knows me will tell you I love food. I can’t deny it. One of the many, many reasons I enjoy travelling is that it awakens all your senses, and I never forget that one of those is taste. I am so passionate about eating, drinking, cooking, experiencing new flavours and, of course, friends and family gathering together for a meal. Actually, if I ever consider a career change, I might make a great chef.

The Portuguese are queens and kings of the culinary scene. Fancy the delicious simplicity of chargrilled sardines scattered with rock salt and drizzled with fresh lemon? Or feasting on a heartwarming, flavoursome stew from grandmother’s table? Crack lobster shells while overlooking the ocean. Relish succulent chicken marinated masterfully in paprika and peppers. Cinnamon sprinkled pastries and caramelised tarts are magnetically moreish. Pop the espumante and pass me the menu.

During my time in Portugal, my palate and my soul sang with joy over so many experiences that I couldn’t wait to get home and share the sensations with you all. So, please read on and raise a glass to the tantalising, unforgettable and appetising adventures that await on this beautiful peninsula.

Decadent Dining

Palácio Chiado
Lisbon
Once upon a time this was a 19th century palace. Now it is a breathtakingly opulent restaurant dedicated to its Bohemian backstory and the culinary pleasures of life. Experience complete gastronomical indulgence, maybe under the golden griffin that is suspended over the dining space. Did they know we were coming? Where do I get one for my bedroom? Anyway, back to the food…

WHAT TO TRY:

Codfish ‘Lisbon to Braga’ served with a parsley and olive tapenade
Beef Loin À Barão – served traditionally with egg, ham and Portuguese sauce
Seitan Carbonara – fettuccini, asparagus & winter truffle

The Majestic Café

Porto

From the façade to the interior to the menu this iconic restaurant had me in absolute awe and inspired my prints Meet Me At The Majestic, Majestic Milla and Ornate On A Plate. Dining and drama merge magically here. Elegant waiters glide under ornate gilded ceilings, cornices and frescoes, serving the likes of presidents, locals, tourists and writers.

INSPIRATION IMAGES FROM CAMILLAS TRAVELS

SHOP THE PRINTS

WHAT TO TRY:

Francesinha – not for those with small appetites or vegetarians, this Portuguese sandwich is full of meats, cheese and covered in a beer and tomato sauce.
Codfish “João do Porto Style”, flavoured in extra virgin olive oil of first cold pressing.
Duck Magret perfumed with Port wine Majestic Tawny 10 Years.

The Yeatman

Porto
A luxury wine hotel and spa with a two Michelin starred restaurant? RSVP ‘Yes please’ from me. Step into the main restaurant and gaze in wonder at its unparalleled, panoramic view of Porto. Factor in that you may momentarily be too distracted to order.

WHAT TO TRY:

The ‘An Evolution Of Aromas’ tasting menu
Ask the sommelier to try something from their Portuguese wine collection

Pica-Pau
Lisbon
This is a culinary term that means woodpecker. The idea with a pica pau meal is that you peck at an array of different bits and pieces on the plate like the bird might. This restaurant has taken on the name and the owners are dedicated to serving all the traditional recipes that appeared on their grandmother’s table.

WHAT TO TRY:

Traditional Portuguese stew
Rooster Cabidela
Stewed gizzards (for the brave)

SHOP THE PRINTS

Clube de Fado
Lisbon
This sublime restaurant is also a Fado venue, a musical genre created in Lisbon that I talk about in our feature on Lisbon here. While enjoying the artists, you will also love the traditional menu served up here with gusto.

WHAT TO TRY:

Octopus lagareiro – this word refers to the mill workers who press olive oil, which is applied liberally to this dish.
Pork steaks and prawns from the cataplana – a piece of Portuguese cookware created especially for sizzling

Share Plates

Chez Maurice
Porto
Being born and bred around Bondi, I will always agree to a beachside cocktail and Chez Maurice reminded me of home. I love the seafront locale, the people watching and petiscos – which is Portuguese tapas.

WHAT TO TRY:

Petiscos aplenty
Mojitos
The enormous iced coffee

SHOP BEACH WEAR

Povo
Lisbon

This brilliant music venue-come-restaurant fuses the charm of Portuguese taverns with a contemporary bar vibe. Povo means ‘people’ so while hearty main dishes are there to be devoured, the menu focuses mostly on sharing. It’s the perfect place to gather a group, bring your bestie, or make new friends over plates and serving boards piled high with all kinds of eclectic options.

WHAT TO TRY:

Farinheira (seasoned sausage) and breadcrumbs with fried eggs
Or for the veggies, ‘Migas’ meaning ‘crumbs’, cornbread with cabbage crumbs

SHOP THE LOOK

Lupita

Lisbon
When you consider the amount of pizza places around the globe, it’s astounding to be in the top 50, like Lupita. Order one of their experimental combinations with quirky names or a delicious original – they’re all spectacular. They even have some pampered pet dogs as dedicated clients.

WHAT TO TRY:

Pizza with vodka sauce
The Street Corn pizza

Cocktails And Mocktails

The Salla bar

Lisbon
This sumptuous space was where the Portuguese aristocracy once played and is housed within the aforementioned Palácio Chiado. It's perfect for some civilised sipping or you can stay late for the DJ and “Farrobodo”, or “wild partying”, a Portuguese word that is rumoured to have originated here, centuries ago.

WHAT TO TRY:

The Portuguese cheese platter
The El Sol Y El Porto cocktail
The Freedom mocktail

SHOP THE LOOKS

Pavilhão Chinês

Lisbon
Ring the bell out front to gain entry into this quirky establishment. In 1901, it was a grocery store. Now, it’s lively cocktail venue where kitsch pieces and objets d’art are punctuated by pool tables. A night of curiosities is guaranteed and the dress code is one of my all-time favourites: anything goes. It was created for the Portuguese painter Luís Pinto Coelho to exhibit his private collection of relics from WW2, so his figurines, helmets and memorabilia now have a home.

WHAT TO TRY:

The Magic Star cocktail
Anything from the vast menu. The mixologists will take care of you.

Sweet Symphony

Patéis de Belém

Lisbon

Portuguese tarts are beloved worldwide but it was about time for me to enjoy one (OK, several) on home ground. They were originally created 300 years ago by monks in the Jerónomis Monastery, or in a shop in Belém established in 1937, depending on which story you believe. Does it really matter when they taste so good?

WHAT TO TRY:

Patéis de Nata these differ slightly from what are called Portuguese tarts in other parts of the world. The custard is thicker and the outside caramelised and crunchy.

SHOP THE LOOKS

Pastelaria Alcôa

Lisbon

Delicious bakeries and patisseries line main streets and winding roads all throughout the country, but I was still overwhelmed by this place. It’s like a grown up version of being a kid in a candy store and next level if you want to experience all the traditional treats.

WHAT TO TRY:

Queijada, which are like miniature cheesecakes
Anything else you can fit in or take away

UAO
Lisbon
Gravitate to UAO by Mu. The gelato here is actually made in Italy but big in Portugal, and amazingly, is also vegan, sugar-free, gluten-free, lactose-free - and utterly delicious. It’s adored by everyone but it’s especially great for those with food allergies or intolerances. Find it on a bustling street corner in Principe Real.

WHAT TO TRY:

Macadamia and cookie crumble gelato
Dark chocolate gelato
Espresso gelato

Feast On The Street

Sardine Festival
Lisbon… but celebrated all over

Being a Pisces and a lifelong fan of a street parties, I have to recommend this. These salty fishies are a Portuguese staple and each June, Lisbon virtually closes for a month to honour the patron saint, St Anthony, and serve up these tasty little morsels. The streets teem with colour and fun from singing to grilling, dancing to drinking. Naturally, all that colour, and the cute, kitsch sardine cans sparked my creativity, and feature on some of the most distinctive designs in the Rua do Universo collection.

SHOP THE PRINTS

A Recipe For Happiness

A journey always holds many surprises along the way and my trip through Portugal was no different. It is a nation brimming with gourmet delights, homegrown culinary treasures, feasting, fine dining, street food and much, much more.

Thank you, Portugal, for inspiring me beyond measure. You filled my soul, my spirit… and my stomach.